Israel: Jerusalem
Shalom! Ayelet and I are happily in Israel where we’ve had a whirlwind past few days visiting her extensive family. Arriving in Tel Aviv, we quickly headed to her Aunt’s place in Ra’anana, passing the home Ayelet first lived in on the way. We were greeted by Safta Tzipi and many cousins. A home! At last!
The next day, we took the train up to Haifa and got our first glimpse of the Mediterranean. What a treat to visit the Baha’i Gardens with a fantastic guide. Each view from Mt. Carmel was more overwhelming than the next. It’s refreshing to be surrounded by so much beauty.
A quick bus ride from Haifa to Jerusalem brought us to Safta Rachel’s apartment in a city that glistens. No, really. All of the buildings are constructed out of the same white stone and the effect at sunset is mesmorizing. Shabbat was a treat as her uncle and their family all came over to feast with us.
This leads us to yesterday: my grand tour of the Old City with Ayelet and the best tour guide in Jerusalem, her grandmother Rachel. The narrow maze of tiny streets leading into the city were lined with touristy shops, spice stores, produce stalls, and religious souveniers waiting to be bought. I restrained myself. It was overwhelming like many of the markets I’ve seen the past two months, but full of western faces! I feel like a pro in this environment after China and India. Try bargaining with me - just try keeping your prices high.
Miraculously, Rachel led us to some beautiful churches. One small one tucked away with a gorgeous, small cloister where concerts are held. Then there was the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus is reportedly buried. Again, overwhelming.
We did, however, get a break by meandering to the best falafel place in Israel. A quick stroll away was the best hummus place in Israel (and I’ll back up this claim). Sadly, I have no idea how to find this place again, but where there’s a will (and an appetite), there’s a way.
Another treat was seeing Ayelet’s family’s favorite ceramic shop. I’d grown up seeing his work at Ayelet’s house and now I was surrounded by it. The artist is now almost blind, but still creating. He’s a legend. And deserves the praise.
Before we made it to the Western Wall, Rachel stopped to point out a doorway. This was where Ayelet’s great-great grandmother lived. Right here, in the middle of the Old City in Jerusalem. The history is overwhelming. Places where Jesus supposedly braced himself on walls, big stone pathways constructed by King Herod’s reign, the Wailing Wall, and here was Ayelet’s ancestors having lived with their winery in the center of it all.
In just a few days, I have not only loved being in the care of Ayelet’s wonderful family but also enjoyed hearing about their history here. Plus, I’m getting a great crash course in Hebrew.
First few impressions?
1) Israel is so clean and organized! Coming from India, everything runs smoothly. The traffic and drivers, as annoying as they are to those who live here, are such a pleasure in comparison to India.
2) Israel is tiny! It’s hard to believe that Egypt is a short (but rather risky) ride away with Syria, Jordon, and Lebenon just next door. Two hours in a car, the same distance as Chicago to Milwaukee, will get you close to most borders.
3) Israel’s love of Carpe Diem. No one knows what will happen tomorrow. There’s so much history, so much turmoil. Being here has only underlined what a difficult situation this is. I learned it in my college classes, but it’s much more real here. Last night, we went out for a bit. Waiting for a bus, we were moved to the next block and police cleared the whole area out. The jury’s out on whether or not it was a bomb scare or Kim Kardasian visiting the neighboring super market, but it still underlined the main idea to live your life to the fullest today. We have no control over the future.
4) Israel loves red heads! So far, I’ve had one guy in the Old City ask to date me. When I said no, he offered his uncle. Leaving the Old City, a man selling me a date roll asked the golden question I heard through India, “Are you married?” When I replied no, he offered his hand in marriage, asking if I would marry a “poor, old, fat, jewish man from Jerusalem.” Although the roll was delicious, the marriage proposal was declined.
