A Ginger Journey

The second half of my time in Israel was spent in Tel Aviv and at the nearby farming town of Be’er Tuvia where Ayelet’s family lives.  

I would describe Tel Aviv as a Miami meets Paris.  It’s a fabulous beach town with plenty of long streets with outdoor cafes perfect for people watching.  A creative hotspot, I felt right at home with Ayelet’s cousins.  

We started our long walk from Yafo on the outskirts of Tel Aviv, heading through Old Jaffa, along the beach, and finally to the heart of the city - the family’s restaurant, Bedolina, to have a big sea side lunch.  

The old city of Jaffa is a spectacular cluster of narrow streets winding around the edge of the Mediterranean.  It’s now lined with small, one room artist studios like this one:

At the edge of Jaffa, we came upon a spectacular vista of Tel Aviv.  And thus began the second leg of our trek, also known as “The Long March”.  This view below gives you a good idea of where we were heading with our 25 lb packs - to where the skyline disappears into the horizon.

 As much as the walk was much longer than we expected (or Ayelet can remember from before), it was a good excuse to walk barefoot in the sea along that long stretch of beach.  Just be sure not to ask, “Are we there yet.”

Finally arriving at the restaurant was heaven.  We almost collapsed into the chairs and spent the next few hours sitting, indulging on delicious, endless food, and resting our feet.  All the while Ayelet battled the same question from her relatives, “Why did you walk from Old Jaffa?”

The next day, we woke up a bit wiser and started by sitting al fresco at a cafe, soaking in the fabulously dressed people cruising the street in Tel Aviv.  

A quick bus ride brought us to the art and crafts market I mentioned in my previous post, along with a peak at one of Tel Aviv’s best shopping streets.  Ayelet made me go…

After a full day in Tel Aviv, we next headed to the country to celebrate Shavout with Ayelet’s family in Be’er Tuvia.  Dinner was a real treat.  Ayelet’s relatives not only run an incredible restaurant, but they also cook up some of the best food I’ve ever had.  

Ayelet tended to her sunburn with the careful aid of her grandmother Tzipi.  A complete reversal from six years ago when Tzipi had nurtured me in Spain during our first meeting.  For the record, if anyone tells you to put yogurt on a sunburn, opt instead for the tea soaked cloth.  

The rest of our time in Be’er Tuvia was spent relaxing on hammocks, reading, talking, sipping mint tea, listening to the neighbor’s sheep, watching the cat sit on the outdoor grill, admiring the quiet during the day, enjoying the parade of tractors cruise by the house for more Shavout celebration, and simply relaxing before more delicious food.

At the end of the day, it was time to head back into the city to enjoy one last night in Tel Aviv.  Spending some good time on the beach was the best way to wrap up Israel.